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NEWS FROM PHIL
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August 4, 2010 My plan is to re-open a section of the Appalachian Trail that has become overgrown with brush and is still full of last Winters blow downs. I want to do a "Trail Magic" work trip in which I have several members of the Maine Appalachian Trail Club as trainers/helpers and plan to enlist the help of fellow hikers who are still hiking the Trail. The plan is to clear the brush and blow downs near Lake Hebron and then have a huge BBQ with soda, cakes, etc available after the clearing so we can socialize and enjoy our contributions to the Trail. All along the way I have been promoting volunteerism in community needs as a way for hikers to pay back to the Trail what has given us so much over the months we have hiked it. Maybe this would be a good opportunity to get a news crew in to see what good we are doing. Access is easy with just a short 3/10 mile walk in from the parking area to the work site. I also plan to continue to be involved with the FFFB and help in any manner I can to continue the good it accomplishes. Laying there in slight darkness, I knew the day was different than the rest. This was the day of the final climb and the end of a long, at times, hard fought journey that began on Springer Mountain in Georgia on April 13, 2010. As I dressed and assembled my gear into my battered pack, I quickly ate breakfast and set off for the summit of Katahdin. The climb up the Hunt trail was harder then I remembered. Strewn with loose rock and house size boulders, I made my way up the steep, exhausting trail using iron bars drilled into the rock and squeezing my tired body between the narrow crevices that served as the trail. Once onto the Tableland, the wind whipped me about and a slight, cold drizzle kept me damp amidst the thick cloudbank. I soon found myself at the summit sign; alone and at peace. With no one around, I dropped my pack, took a few pictures and slipped behind a boulder to get out of the wind and contemplate my next move. Getting ready to leave, I heard voices and waited for the arrival of two hikers who took my final summit pictures and then made my way back across the Tableland and down the Abol Slide trail; a trail I have said 5 times before that I would never do again. The Abol slide trail is like falling off the face of the earth. It is a steep ravine near the top, strewn with loose rock and sand making it difficult to maintain ones footing. I slipped and fell three times on the way down due to the fact that my boots no longer had any substantial tread left on the bottom and because the rocks lay atop the loose sand that had settled on smooth ledge beneath. Once off the mountain, I caught two quick rides out of the Park and into Millinocket where I met my wife at the American Loggers restaurant where we dined and celebrated my return. Now home, I look back on my 3-1/2 month journey and am at peace that it is finally over and my body can heal from all the abuse that it has seen over time. What a long, strange trip it has been. I am pleased with the way in which I approached this hike and achieved my goals. With no clear direction in the beginning, other than the fact that I knew I would set out on this hike and begin my walk home, over time, I found that I enjoyed walking all day and camping alone at night in places that gave me peace and beauty. I know I saw more sunrises and sunsets from some of the loveliest perches en route and I met some really fantastic people. I encountered ten bears and six poisonous snakes along the way and my final week was a bit more unusual in which I met my first hiker travelling with two pack goats and a naked hiker enjoying the warmth of the Maine woods (how come all naked hikers are men!). While some may not understand the way that I hiked the Trail on this trip with high mileage days, I know that I saw more and did more than most hikers do. My "epiphany" on this hike occurred back in Pennsylvania at the Pocahontas Spring just outside of Port Clinton. As I was dipping my cup into the cool waters, I looked at the same sign that I had seen on my two previous hikes. It was then and there that I realized that this was the third and final time that I would ever drink from this spring. From that point on, I savored every moment of the Trail knowing that I would probably never pass these miles again. My eyes were opened to the beauty and even though I was putting a lot of time into each day, I was, in fact, not hiking any faster than anyone else, I was just covering more miles into each day. My days usually consisted of beginning my hike at 5am and walking until 5-6pm at night. It was easy to cover 20+ miles in that timeframe and still enjoy my frequent lunch breaks at scenic vistas, roaring brooks or any of the number of other enjoyable spots en route. In '77 I hiked the Trail in 151 days and in '82 my totals amounted to 156 days which is a typical five month hike for most hikers; some taking even 6 months to complete the hike. In 2010, at the age of 55, I covered a greater distance (the Trail is now 2175 as compared to 2056 in '77) in 113 days. I am pleased with that timeframe. It is not something I set out to do, just something that happened along the way. I achieved my goals and purposes along the way. My biggest and singular purpose for doing the Trail this year was to affirm my belief in the Lord, Jesus Christ as my personal Savior. It is because of Him that I committed myself to this hike. I also helped raise awareness and some funds for the Eastern Area Agency on Aging and their Furry Friends Food Bank ( www.eaaa.org) and made a lot of new friends along the way. From here, I am not sure which path my life will take. I only know that I am happy to be home with my loving wife, four dogs and a horse named Rosey. Robin is on vacation next week and my sole plan is to spend as much time with my family as I can and then head in the direction my heart and the Lord takes me. Thanks for your support and for your well wishes along the way. Again, what a long, strange trip it has been!......Phil from Maine July 29, 2010 This isn’t hiking anymore. It is using all fours to get up and down the mountains. The steep descents have been taking a toll on my arthritic knees and I have had to increase the dosage on Aleve to three each, twice a day to relieve some of the pain. I still have open sores on both sides of my hips from my waist belt but have relieved some of that problem by cutting a chunk of foam out of my sleeping pad to take up some of the space and cushion the strain. I am two days away from crossing the Kennebec River, the most formidable river crossing on the entire AT and, yes, I will take the ferry across this time since I will be down to the water later in the day. I figure with four Kennebec River fords to my credit, the canoe is a better way to go this time. My plans are to be in Monson on July 29 and finish up on Katahdin on August 4. That will give me a season of just over 3 and 1/2 months to have completed the Trail for the third time. It is definitely quiet and somewhat lonely up here. This reminds me of my earlier hikes where the crowds thinned out. Seeing lots of South bounders starting out on their epic journey. You couldn't pay me enough to turn around and join them! I am tired, beat up and anxious to be done. It is difficult to hike over Trail that I have covered dozens of times before, just to make this a thru-hike. I could have been done two weeks ago on Mt. Washington had I had chosen to end my hike there as that is where my final section was to making this an "official" end to end" hike. I go on because of my commitment to my fundraising as well as my commitment to Jesus. Eleven more days and I will be back home with my wife where I belong. Thanks for your support.....Phil from Maine July 18, 2010 I fell short of my daily mileage goals the first three days, but managed to do the entire Presidential Range over Mt Washington in a day (24 miles) to meet with my good friend and former AT '82 hiking companion Lynn Farnham at his home in Randolph, NH. From there I rented a car and will return to the Trail Monday morning to finish up the Trail in about three weeks time. There are still a little over 330 miles left to do. The heat, humidity and bugs the past 4 weeks or so have taken their toll on me both physically and mentally. I have had a few days where I suffered from heat exhaustion and then constant bombardment of deer flies and gnats tested my will on a daily basis. I am determined to see this through to the end, despite the fact that I have already completed the Trail for the third time upon reaching the summit of Mt. Washington. I have done section hikes over the years with friends and Robin allowing me to claim completion of the Trail. I want to press on to continue my fund raising efforts for the Eastern Area Agency for the Aging and the Furry Friends Food Bank (www.eaaa.org) For those who would like to drop me a line or two of encouragement, my last mail drop will be in Monson, Me 04464. I should be there around July 31 and hope to finish the Trail around August 5. All is still well with me despite some nasty sores on my hips where my waist belt chafed from the continued wetness of my heavy sweating in the heat and some painful chafing of my left thigh, again from the wetness caused by heavy sweating. My feet are fine, but look nasty from the months of abuse. I am rested, resupplied, fattened up a bit by a wife concerned with my frail look and ready to hit the Trail in the morning. With Maine being the final State, I have saved the best hiking for last! I am, however, looking forward to completion. It's been a long, difficult journey but one that has made many new friendships, provided me with a new perspective on the Trail and allowed me to help my neighbors in Maine to keep their pets despite the difficulties they face on a daily basis. If you haven't already done so, please make a small donation to help this worthwhile and needed assistance program continue.......Phil from Maine July 18, 2010 I will continue on, however, to continue raising funds and interest in the FFFB. I should be in Stratton, ME next weekend and from there will resupply with my next and final resupply in Monson, ME. The heat, humidity and bugs the past few weeks has been quite trying, both physically and mentally. There have been more than a few times I wanted to "throw the towel in" and be done, but I am determined to see this through and I am in hopes that we can achieve enough financial support from the community to help out those people in need. I am so happy to have been a part of this and I am proud to have had the opportunity to generate interest in your agency and the needs of the community. I hope the interest of donors continues long after this hike ends. June 12, 2010 Easily in the 90’s and starting to get humid again. I was going to go a bit further, but the heat drained me a bit and the climb to this shelter wore me down. I set up my tarp and tent just before the skies opened up. There’s lots of thunder and heavy rain while I write this. I’m so happy I purchased the tarp. I use it almost every night. It allows me to camp more freely as well as provide me with a degree of privacy. Makes life on the Trail a little easier and every little bit helps. I’ve been struggling lately with homesickness. I miss Robin, my dogs and our way of life in general. It’s harder on the weekends because that is when I see more people out and whenever I see a couple, I always start missing my time spent with Robin. We pretty much do everything together and this time away is proving difficult. I don’t think it helps me either that I haven’t been getting much rest. I am at it every day and doing high mileage to boot. I am looking forward to at least a partial day off in Duncannon tomorrow. I’ll have just have 11 miles, but most of it will be slow going because of all the rocks. June 11, 2010 It’s a good feeling to have over half the mileage done, but I know the next half is the toughest and most grueling. Lots of big climbs and rough terrain remain. I am still doing okay even with the big miles. My left foot is sore most of the time, mainly my little toe. I hope the replacement boots being shipped to Port Clinton, PA will be a better fit. They are the same style boot, broken in and should be ready to go. My current boots are looking pretty sad and the leather uppers have separated from the soles on the sides. Hope they can last another 150 miles. Another long day planned for tomorrow, then 10 miles into Duncannon, PA on Sunday for a half day of rest before getting mail, etc., then heading back out on Monday. The new Steripen water purifier I received in Harpers Ferry doesn’t work! It looked like a rebuilt unit and it only worked once. I’ve tried numerous times to the point of frustration. They’ll be hearing from me soon and it won’t be pleasant. Glad I saved the tablets as the water source I am using tonight is suspect due to its low lying area and close proximity to farms and such. I’ll have to take my chances I guess! June 10, 2010 June 9, 2010 Had time for breakfast and then left around 5:30. As the day progressed, the rain fell harder and lasted most of the day. I was going to stay about 5 miles back, but the shelter listed in my guide hasn’t been built yet so I kept looking for something that wasn’t there! Since I was out of water, I needed to continue on. I made my way to Pen-Mar State Park where I filled up on water, took a break and then walked another mile to a nice pine campsite above a small stream. I hauled water the extra mile rather than wait for the stream since the area I am in is partially residential and in close proximity to the Trail. Don’t need to drink what the cows and horses have been in. So… an “easy” 21 mile day turned into 26+. Rocks are becoming numerous and slowing the pace (when I can keep one!). Everything being all wet made for a long day. Suppers on and a few more chores before bed. So…how cool is this?!!! Sunday night I was sleeping in Virginia. Monday night I slept in West Virginia. Last night in Maryland and tonight I sleep in Pennsylvania!! I spent so much time in Virginia with its 536 miles of trail, that a small notation allows for a psychological boost. Pennsylvania will take about 10-11 days or so to hike through and then New York and New Jersey are next. June 6, 2010 I noted the changes in the Trail, trail conditions and discussed the future directions of the AT in general. It was a 2 hour meeting and I felt privileged and honored that they set aside this much time to talk with me. Earlier in the morning, I was filmed by an ATC staff member. We discussed various aspects of the AT. ATC put me up for the night in their guest cottage and I went out to dinner with my friend Laurie Potteiger, her husband Richard, and their friend “Elf”. It was a very enjoyable evening. Afterwards I went to my “home”, went through my gear and prepared my pack with my re-supply materials and food. I had to perform an emergency sewing job a few miles into the hike. My waist belt ripped away from the supporting belt and I did a quick stitch job. A few miles later I stopped at a nice Maryland State Historical Park and used a picnic table as an operating table to do a more thorough stitch job. It should hold, but will keep an eye on it for future problems. June 6, 2010 June 5, 2010 All day long they kept going for my eyes. Had to keep brushing them away with my soaked bandana. Today would have been a great day to be inside in front of an air conditioner. Kept thinking, off and on, how it was Saturday and I could be up to camp enjoying the quiet of my porch and having Robin cook us up some burgers and dogs on the grill. The toughest part of the hike is being homesick. It was a tough day for me in more ways than one. June 4, 2010 Did a quick supper and setup as the skies are threatening again and I heard rumbles of thunder all afternoon. Another sticky day though not as hot. Saw another bear today while hiking. This one didn’t want to get off the Trail so I had to yell, bang my hiking pole on a rock, and clap my hands to get him to move so I could pass by. He only moved about 100 feet off the Trail and we watched each other as I passed. I kept checking back, just in case he decided to follow. Also saw a snake as well. Don’t know what kind it was but they all give me the creeps. Did 24 ½ miles today and may have gone a little further if the weather looked more promising. I just didn’t want to get caught up in another downpour and lightening storm. Three more days and I will finally be out of Virginia (over 500 miles of trail in VA) and into Harpers Ferry, West Virginia. That will be a nice milestone and the States will start falling along the wayside quickly. June 3, 2010 Even though I no longer need to, I still feel like doing bigger mile days. I know they will catch up sometime, but I really do like hiking and camping alone. Hiked with “Stryker” today. He is a Marine reservist spending his summer doing the AT before rejoining his company and going to Afghanistan. By hiking solo, I get to meet many interesting people; something I rarely do when hiking with Josh and Dustin. I like being with them and I like being alone too. Saw a bear today about a mile before the shelter. I was going to camp near Pinnacle Peak when I rounded a bend and there he was; black as black could be. It wasn’t a real big bear, but one deserving respect no less. I clapped my hands together a few times and yelled “git”. He moved up the Trail a bit further and then disappeared in the brush. I chose to move on and I’m camped near the “Byrd Nest 3” shelter. Had another violent thunderstorm again today. We were near the Skyland Resort so Stryker and I made a beeline to the Lodge and caught the first few moments of a massive downpour. We waited it out for a half hour and then moved on. June 2, 2010 You have to poke around in the woods to find a spot big (and flat) enough for your tent. Last night’s site had been lightly used. For tonight’s site, I had to move a few rocks and smooth out the ground and remove dead branches. Going to sleep in just the open tent tonight. Today was another hot (though not oppressive), clear sunny day. Did 25 ½ miles today. Not sure if I have to go into Front Royal. Will find out tomorrow when I can call Robin from Big Meadows campground. I have a replacement Steripen water purifier waiting for me somewhere. Need to do 25+ the next two days to be able to get into Front Royal by noon before the post office closes. Just thought of this – I am camped a little over a mile from a picnic area, the same one I filled up with water from. I would imagine there are visiting bears in the area. I heard something near my campsite early this morning and I slapped my hands a few times and whatever it was, wandered off. June 1, 2010 Got all my chores done in Waynesboro. We had a nice room at the Quality Inn; everything was within easy walking distance. Didn’t do much e-mail as the motel did not have a computer to use and the library was busy due to the day after the holiday with other hikers and locals using all the stations. I am high on a nice ridge campsite. It is off the trail and very quiet with a nice breeze. Only did 14 miles due to the late start out of town. Looks like I will have to ramp up the mileage to make it into Front Royal before the post office closes at noon on Saturday for a potential unplanned mail drop to get my new water purifier. Looks like 25+ mile days for the next 3 days and then 7-10 on Saturday. May 30, 2010 Another 22 mile day. Overall the hike was easy with a major 3 mile climb up three ridges right off the bat. Made it to the top for a late sunrise but the colors were still nice and the valleys were covered in fog so the surrounding peaks looked like islands in a sea of white. The footpath is beginning to get rockier and a little slower going. This will be more the norm and the smoother footpath (in places) will be a thing of the past. It’s hot today—around mid 80’s. Not too humid, but a taste of the weather ahead. I keep hearing rumbles in the distance so we will probably get showers later tonight. I’m all set with my tarp as I chose to camp out tonight. Both Dustin and I want to take advantage of the cooler night air in our netted tents where we can each sleep on top of our sleeping bags and not get eaten alive by the bugs. The “no-see-ums” have been bad lately. Town tomorrow!!! I know we are both looking forward to a hot shower and clean laundry. Both are badly needed! May 29, 2010 Another long day and a holiday weekend. Spend the night with at least 50 other people at the Harper’s Creek shelter. A scout troop provided comedy relief as we watched them prepare their evening meal. Let it be known – a 5 gallon pail of water does not do well on a backpacking stove meant for no more than one gallon! One of the legs on their stove bent and we thought for sure it would topple over. They placed a second stove underneath the pot to provide additional support and it bent. Their meal of mac and cheese for 20, resembled a soup and we heard one scout say “it tastes good, but it’s crunchy”. Overall everyone in the area was quiet and considerate to others. Encountered more “trail magic” with cold soda at the road 3 miles before the shelter. I even packed in a Dr. Pepper to have with dinner. Life is good! May 28, 2010 Dustin and I are camped at a really nice meadow down in the pines. This area used to be an old homestead back in the 1800’s. Lots of stone walls and the bald, summit area we walked across was used for cattle. Amazing how some of the settlers lived. Seems like it was a tough life. We hiked the 11 miles to the road where we got a ride into Buena Vista from a retired guy who has hiked all 3 long distance trails. Did some quick groceries and Josh’s wife picked us up and we went out to eat in Lexington. They dropped us off back at the trailhead at 4 pm and we did another 7 miles to here. We got caught in a violent thunderstorm up on the ridge. The rain was cold and torrential and the lightning strikes were 1-2 seconds away. While the section we were hiking on was wooded, the close proximity of the lightning strikes was a little unnerving. Dustin said that was the worse thunderstorm he had ever been in. I have only been in one worse and that was the New York on my 1977 trip. The storm lasted about 30 minutes and all we could do was hurry along. Even if we had stopped and hunkered down, we wouldn’t have felt any safer. It is definitely one of those moments he and I will talk about often for years to come. This was the first time we went into town and came back to the Trail the same day. No shower, no nice clean laundry. We’re both looking forward to Waynesboro in three more days. May 27, 2010 Another nice sunny day only a little more humid. Tough hiking today with a couple of long, steep climbs. It wore the three of us out and we’re all laying around the shelter with little ambition. A 20 mile day felt more like 30. Nice views and pretty walking but much more rugged terrain then we have seen in a while. Tomorrow we will hitch into Buena Vista where Josh will take 3 days off to be with his wife before she deploys to the Persian Gulf. She is an Air Force pilot and will be flying missions there for 4 months. Dustin and I will do a light re-supply and then Josh wants us to meet his wife and take us out to dinner. Too tired to write anymore. We got our butts kicked today! May 26, 2010 After I went to bed last night I was almost asleep when I heard a branch break. It really woke me up and I laid there intently listening. Sure enough a little while later I heard another branch break. I unzipped my tent and when I stood up I heard a loud snort and saw three white tailed deer bound off in different directions. Guess they weren’t used to someone camping in their area. It was a long 24 mile walk today with lots of ups and downs; mostly up. I’m into a more rugged part of Virginia with 4,000-5,000 ft. mountains. It’s much wilder even though I am camped near a dirt road. I grabbed 4 quarts of water a couple of miles back and kept looking for a campsite, but none to be found until I got to the road and located a level spot a few hundred yards in. Had a nice sunny day for a change. May 25, 2010 Re-supplied and back on the Trail to a high mountain campsite 22 miles out of Daleville. Trail conditions were much better. The Roanoke ATC does a great job on shelters, but terrible on Trail maintenance. The Natural Bridge ATC maintains the next 88 miles and it is noticeably better. No brush, water bars cleaned out—just better trail conditions. It’s kind of sticky today with a few sprinkles. Will probably end up with rain in some form before the night is over. It will give me a chance to try my new tarp which is currently hanging on a line while the freshly applied sealant is drying. The tarp will make it much more comfortable and easier to pack up and stay dry when it rains. It will help keep my leaky tent dry too! Still haven’t tried the tent since I coated it with sealant. I am averaging 17.6 miles per day since leaving Springer Mountain in Georgia. If I can boost my mileage to 18.1, I can do the Trail in 120 days. Ideally, I would like to do this as a personal goal. In two more months I’ll be 55 and it would be an achievement to do the Trail in less time than when I was 21 or 26. If my feet can hold up, I think I’ll be able to do it. I want to keep at 20+ miles per day and I think I want to hike alone again. I developed a different mindset after I left by myself in Irwin, TN. I was on my own and enjoying it, meeting and hiking with different people. While I enjoy Josh and Dustin’s company immensely I will go it alone at some point. I also forgot it was Memorial Day weekend which means the post office in Waynesboro will be closed on Monday. I will have to adjust for this. May 23, 2010 I’m at the Lamberts Meadow shelter, resting and getting ready for supper after a difficult, yet spectacular, 23 mile day. The Trail went over McAffee Knob, a rocky ledge outcropping with nice views of mountains and scenic country farms. Then the Trail went across Tinker Cliffs for a ½ mile with even more views and sharp drop offs. A nasty thunderstorm moved over in the afternoon, but I was still able to get some pictures. Lots of climbing and rough trail as well as more walks through farm pastures and along a nice stream. I was still wet most of the day. My feet will be happy to see some clean, dry socks. All my socks are wet and stink from sweat and being in a plastic bag. I took a nice sponge bath when I got here. Someone had left some body wash, so I wet my wash cloth and cleaned up. I feel like a new man, but in smelly clothes. Will be in town tomorrow which means clean laundry, re-supply and PIZZA! May 22, 2010 Staying at the Pickle Branch shelter after a full day of rain. Sun is coming out but everything is still soaked. This section of Trail doesn’t see much maintenance getting done. Lots of brush across the Trail, so even with the sun out you still get soaked from all the wet undergrowth. This is our shortest day in a long time--did 17 miles. Funny how the rain can “dampen” your spirits. Just means a bigger day tomorrow so we can get into Daleville for re-supply early the next day. Not much for views today. Mostly a lot of climbing; a long wooded ridge walk and then a steep descent and another steep climb. May 21, 2010 Staying in the Sarvor Hollow shelter with Josh tonight. It looks like rain, so I didn’t want to tent and have to haul it out wet if I didn’t have to. Did 21 miles and climbed two more long wooded ridges. The Trail went past some very old log cabins and old settlements. Couldn’t help but think about what it was like to live back then--the tools they used and how long it took to build their simple cabin. How hard life must have been back then to try and grow crops on all the rock. Nothing to exciting today. A lot of pretty hardwood forests and mile after mile of blooming azalea, mountain laurel and rhododendrons. Lots of color overhead and on the ground. May 20, 2010 It’s amazing the new things you can learn out on the Trail. Even though I have done this twice before, today I learned to NEVER place a can of Pringles chips on its side in your pack—especially a partial can. I had never packed Pringles before. I opened the can; had a few before I left town and saved the rest for later. Well, most of them escaped from the can and ended up all over the inside of my pack. I saved what I could and dumped the rest. We are in the part of Virginia where the mountains are lower in elevation – around 4,000 ft., and the ridges are long and relatively narrow and mostly wooded with lots of flowering trees and bushes. Today was mostly a steep climb right out of town with a heavy pack and then a 23 mile hike across ridges, a steep descent; then along a stream. Nice and sunny for a change. The undergrowth is still wet, so my boots and socks stayed wet.
It is so good to be back. I want to rest up a bit, re-adjust and re-connect with friends, family and of course my wife and dogs. The next two days will find me getting caught up on "chores" like vehicle inspections, oil changes and getting ready for a major Trail Club work trip I am putting together this Saturday in Monson, Maine.
August 3, 2010
Good Morning everyone......August 3, 2010 found this hiker sleeping peacefully in his tent and awakened by the gentle sound of the pitter-patter and drip-drip-drip of a light rain upon the fly of his tent.
Hi Everyone....I am in Monson, the final re-supply before heading into the Hundred Mile Wilderness and making that big climb on Katahdin to finish up. I still have two big mountains standing in the way and then into lake country. I am tired but my spirits are still high. It has gotten hotter and buggier since I left the high mountains of Maine, but with only one week left, I think I can tough it out. I am back up to 20+ mile days, but I notice I am struggling more. I think this may be partially due to a poor diet. I ran out of vitamins back in Vermont and my Pop Tarts and Little Debbie lunches just don't seem to be cutting it. Can't wait for salads and steaks again! Thanks to everyone for their support and help while I have been out here. I look forward to finishing and being back with my wife and dogs again. It’s been a long, hot three months. I should be summiting on August 4....Phil from Maine
July 25, 2010
Hi Everyone.....I am resting and resupplying in Stratton, Maine right now and will head out to finish off the last 185 miles or so. What the White Mountains didn't take out of me, the Maine Mountains are having their way-not just with me but with others I continue to pass. I am both physically exhausted and mentally and emotionally drained. While the weather has been cooler, the climbs have been intense.
Hi Everyone....Just a few quick lines to let you know I took two days off and rented a car in Gorham, NH to return home to resupply, visit with my wife and family and to make some small equipment changes before returning to the Trail and completing the Trail through Maine and to Katahdin. The White Mtns. were tough!! Much tougher than I remember and much more beautiful and will and rugged than I remember as well.
Phil Pepin, here. Just wanted to drop you a few lines to let you know I am doing well and getting ready to head out in the morning. I came home yesterday (Sat.) and will leave around 4am tomorrow (Mon) to return the rental car and be dropped off at the Trailhead near Gorham, NH around 8am to continue my hike. Just so you will know, when I reached RT 2 I had completed the Trail for the third time. I had done section hikes with Robin and my best friend over the past few years, so that all of the Trail from Rt 2 to Katahdin has already been completed.
Did 22 ½ miles today, most of it across Cumberland Valley. The last 2 times I went through here, the Trail was all on roads. Over 13 miles of hot, busy pavement. Since then, land has been purchased or easements negotiated to allow the Trail to pass through mostly farmlands. Lots of pretty, working farms through here. It was hot today.
Camped by a small stream. Did 24 ½ miles today. It was a mostly sunny day with drier air. I passed the half way mark early this morning so I am now considered over half way home!!
It doesn’t get much better than this while out on the Trail. I am at a beautiful pine needled campsite surrounded by flowering mountain laurel. Just a short ways from me is a cooler of “trail magic” filled with ice and Pepsi. I’m slugging one down now as I wait for supper to cook. I was looking for a water source but the melting ice is enough for my needs. I can get more water tomorrow at the next shelter. It was a perfect day today with a nice breeze and dry air for a change. Did 25+ miles to here and the walking was fairly easy though rocky and slow in places. Tomorrow I hit the halfway point!!
Good night for sleeping last night. It cooled down during the night and I awoke at 5 a.m. to a few drops of rain. I quickly gathered up my gear and took down the tent.
I’m camping near the Rocky Run shelter. Came 16 miles today after a late start out of Harpers Ferry. Had a meeting this morning with National Park Service Supervisor, Pam Underhill, several of her staff members and several ATC reps. We discussed my hike and the observations I have made along the way.
Staying at the Bear’s Den Hostel tonight. I’m taking advantage of their thru-hike special which includes a bed, shower, laundry, pizza, pint of Ben and Jerry’s ice cream and a soda for $27.00. How can you beat that?!! Today was another hot, humid day and the skies opened just a couple of miles before I arrived here, so everything’s damp. I’m drying things out on the clothesline and just taking it easy until morning. Looking forward to getting into Harpers Ferry, WV and being out of Virginia.
Sticky today. It’s that nasty, wet, uncomfortable, gross kind of sticky. The air was so thick with moisture it made it difficult to breath and the hike seemed longer than what it was – all 22 miles of it. To make matters worse, the deer flies are out and the “red eye” flies wouldn’t leave me alone.
Campsites in the Shenandoah NP are definitely few and far between. The park encourages hikers to stay at the shelters, but off trail camping is permitted. I found a site way off the Trail on a wooded ridge with just enough room for my tent and tarp. I had to move branches and rocks and such, but the site is quite comfortable.
The verdict is in – the Steripen will not be Front Royal so I don’t need to go in. I have enough food, plus I can pickup extra at a store in Linden, which is near the Trail. I also plan to stay at the Bears Den Hostel just before Harpers Ferry, WV. Dustin is about a half day (10 miles) behind me and Josh is probably a day behind.
Campsites are definitely hard to come by. This is my second night of camping in Shenandoah National Park. I had to look long and hard to find a suitable spot to camp. There are no trailside campsites.
Hard to believe it’s June already. Still haven’t gained any morning daylight. Sunrise seems to be stuck at 5:30. I’d like to get out sooner as I am usually awake around 4:30 and would like to take advantage of the cooler temps as it has warmed up to 85-90 degrees during the day. The air has been sticky and there is always an afternoon thunderstorm. Seems like it rains every day in one form or another.
Staying in the Docs Knobb shelter for the night with only 8 miles to go before Pearisburg. Did a 24 mile day today to get to here and was going to do another 5, but the skies opened up and the rain poured down. Been raining in some form or another for the past 5 days. Everything is either damp or wet…no more dry socks. It’ll be nice to get into town to get cleaned up and relax and re-supply.
Been making a list of things I need to get, and things to do, as I always forget something. Seems like I have too much to do and not enough time. I saw my first bear of the hike! It was only 50-60 feet away when I came across it. He was tearing apart an old stump when I happened to notice something black move. About the same time, his nose went up in the air and he tore off through the woods. He wasn’t very big. Probably a first year bear. Bigger than a cub, but not full grown. Still gave me a rush! Just me and Oh-i-Bro in the shelter tonight. Much quieter on this side of Damascus. Glad I did all the 20+ days to get ahead of the crowd.
May 17, 2010
Cold, wet and miserable all day today. Just one of those days where you have to keep moving just to stay warm. Did a quick 24 miles into the shelter, but was pleasantly surprised at the road crossing 3 miles back where a couple had set up a tarp complete with folding chairs and lots of food!! Ate two cheeseburgers, chips, Twix, Gatorade, etc. Could have eaten more, but got chilled and needed to get moving to stay warm.
It’s so nice of people to do this type of Trail Magic, just felt bad for them that the day they chose was so miserable. They looked as cold as we felt. One more big day tomorrow and then into Pearisburg. Trail through here has been pretty nondescript. Mostly old woods roads and forests with no views or anything. Pleasant enough walk, especially with all the flowers and easier than doing a lot of climbing.
